Thoughts on graded "authentic" cards...

[whelenfan]

I have been watching a few graded t205 cards at auction that are graded as "authentic" but look very much nicer overall. Just thinking along aesthetic lines, how should I rate them for $ amount? If I am only looking for collecting sake how should I figure them for dropping my hard earned cash? Another question, the grade of "authentic", does that usually denote a card that has been trimmed? Thanks

[Bigb13]

No it doesn't authentic can mean recolored or touched in anyway.

[Bigb13]

This card is authentic just because someone tried to repair a crease. 172661

[MVSNYC]

hand-cut scrap (not distributed) cards get an Authentic grade also.

[EvilKing00]

Id take a beautiful auth over a beat up sgc 1 any day. Thats prob in the minority on this site. I have a handfull if babe ruth auth cards, but on the other hand out of 90 plus t205's i only have 1 auth.

I think alot of factors come into play, overall look of the card, price, and type of card

[Bigb13]

172663

[EvilKing00]

If i could afford that jackson id have no issue with the auth! Beautiful card

[Bigb13]

Thank you

[whelenfan]

Thanks for all of the replies. I think that if I can find a deal on a decent priced authentic card, I will try to pick it up. A collector like me would be able to add a better looking card for maybe a little less money.

[jasonc]

Id take a beautiful auth over a beat up sgc 1 any day. Thats prob in the minority on this site. I have a handfull if babe ruth auth cards, but on the other hand out of 90 plus t205's i only have 1 auth.

I think alot of factors come into play, overall look of the card, price, and type of card

Actually, I agree. I know people shy away from cards with beautiful fronts and a little paper loss on the back, or maybe a pin hole and a little pen mark on the back. But I feel they are more pleasing to the eye than a card with a major creasing and rounded corners.
Just my opinion.

[bobbyw8469]

I love authentic cards!! You get a nice looking card for less money. What's not to love about that?

http://img2.sellersourcebook.com/users/73693/@@_img272.jpg

[frohme]

Id take a beautiful auth over a beat up sgc 1 any day. Thats prob in the minority on this site. I have a handfull if babe ruth auth cards, but on the other hand out of 90 plus t205's i only have 1 auth.

I think alot of factors come into play, overall look of the card, price, and type of card

+1

Posted this one before as one of my favorites. It (and a couple other nice "A"'s ) have given my the thought of doing a set of "auth-only". Great way to get a visually appealing set at a fraction of the cost.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x51/frohme/3c1cc428-2_zps133d29ac.jpg
--
Mike

[Tao_Moko]

I'm of the belief that all graded cards are best listed as "Authentic" or "Altered" and leave the condition up to the buyer. Both require era and maker description because a reprint can be "Authentic" and "Altered" should list the alteration. Otherwise, as long as you pay accordingly, I have no issue with some altered cards if they present well and prefer them to beaters.

*Nice Jackson!

[ValKehl]

IMHO, here is a good example of where an "A" graded card is much nicer than the same card with a numerical grade. A few years ago, I had both of these vary scarce 1953-54 Briggs Meats Mickey Mantle cards - neither one was graded. I traded the worse condition one that has surface paper loss affecting part of Mantle's printed name - this card was subsequently graded a 10/1 by SGC (I believe it was submitted to SGC by the first auction house that sold it back in 2011). I still have the nicer card, which I submitted to SGC at the 2012 National and received an "A" grade. This is why I'm not a big fan of card grading - and, I wish TPGs offered an alternative service to just tell me if my card is authentic or not and whether or not it has been altered.
Val

[buymycards]

Hi Eric, I agree with you. Authentic or altered, with a description of the alteration, should be enough.

Rick

[Vintagevault13]

I'm of the belief that all graded cards are best listed as "Authentic" or "Altered" and leave the condition up to the buyer. Both require era and maker description because a reprint can be "Authentic" and "Altered" should list the alteration. Otherwise, as long as you pay accordingly, I have no issue with some altered cards if they present well and prefer them to beaters.



*Nice Jackson!


+1


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[leaflover]

I won't know or care when my heirs go to sell this one.
In the meantime I'm just going to enjoy it.

[GehrigFan]

Just an FYI - BVG actually does Authentic and Authentic-Altered differently. Authentic usually refers to a card that a person chooses to be Authenticated only without the numerical grade. However, it can also refer to strip cards or other hand cut cards that are too small to get a grade. But any card that is trimmed, colored, etc. is marked as Authentic-Altered. I have used them several times to slab lower grade cards as Authentic that I didn't want numerical grades on. I also use it on modern non sport autographs where the grade is under a 9 and I just want the card authenticated.