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View Full Version : Set collectors: which school of thought do you subscribe to?


the 'stache
11-24-2013, 03:27 AM
My T206 collection is still relatively small (I am bidding on what will be my 20th card), so if I am going to make any changes as to how I collect the set, now is the time to do so. Making a change down the road could unnecessarily cost me money, money that could be better spent in adding cards to my collection. So I want to create some guidelines I can be happy with now. The whole "collect what you like" mantra sounds good, but I think there's a little more to it.

Here's my question for you set collectors, whether you collect the white borders set, a Goudey set, Old Judge cards, or something else altogether. Do you subscribe to the "buy the very best you can afford" line of thinking when it comes to acquiring new cards, or do you instead prefer to buy attractive, yet affordable cards, knowing by doing so, you can finish the set more quickly with less of an overall investment?

I love baseball, and thoroughly enjoy collecting. But the stock broker in me can't help but look at whatever I spend as an investment. I've gone from deciding that I wanted to work on the T206 set primarily (while adding other cards I like along the way), to focusing on SGC graded cards, then SGC 40 graded cards. Having the entire set (minus the big 4) at the same grade would be cool if I wanted to do a registry set. But I also want to consider the long term stability of these card values. I don't plan on ever selling my cards, but I know at some point I will shuffle off this mortal coil, and a wife, or a son, is going to inherit my collection, and may sell it. So I would like my cards to maintain their value, and I wonder if having cards with a higher grade won't ensure they retain more of their value.

I also have to admit that since receiving my latest card, the Wid Conroy, which is graded at SGC 50, I like the higher quality card from an aesthetic standpoint. As I am shopping for cards to add to my set, I am sensing something I have never realized before. I find myself being more discerning. More patient. A few long time pre-war collectors that I've spoken with privately have told me how important patience is in this hobby. Patience in finding cards at a good price, and patience in finding a card that I like. There are several examples of the card I am currently looking for, but none of them meet this new standard I've felt myself developing.

So all this being said, I'm curious how you set collectors are approaching how you build. I realize that over the life of my collection, if I start going for higher, mid grade cards (PSA 4-5, SGC 50-60), it will cost me much more in the long run, but I don't think I'd ever have to worry about the "I wish I'd spent a little more, and bought cards that were a bit more presentable" regret.

buymycards
11-24-2013, 04:36 AM
Interesting question, Bill. It may depend on which set you are working on. You have a lot more choices with a readily attainable set, such as 33 Goudey's or T206's. I collect Louisiana issues, and with a set such as Weil Baking, you have to pick up cards when they become available at a reasonable price because there aren't many of these cards around.

With a set like T206, the "completionist" side of me (is that a word?) wants to complete the set and the tightwad side of me wants to complete it at the lowest cost. Let's say that you decide to collect only SGC40 T206's. Chances are that you will pay more than you should for some of the cards so you can make some progress on your set. Otherwise you will never complete it. When it comes time to sell, you will never get your investment back on these cards. IMO, the only way you can be sure to recoup your money would be to patiently wait to purchase cards that are selling for well under the average value, but once again, it will take many years to complete the set.

If you look at a card like a SGC40 T206 common, there are dozens, or hundreds of each card, and I don't see any scenario where they will increase in value, especially if your family would need to dispose of them fairly quickly after your death and they can't keep them on the market long enough to get the best price.

So, why not collect a slightly lower grade and have the satisfaction of being able to see those cards come through the mail every couple of days and watch your collection grow?

If you are only concerned about long term investment value, then an entirely different line of thinking will apply, but there are many board members who are much more knowledgeable than I am who can point you in the right direction.

Enjoy your set!

Rick

x2drich2000
11-24-2013, 05:39 AM
I generally follow the same pattern as Rick, I try to find cards that have good eye appeal on more readily available sets. However, I also look at what the high price cards in a set sell for before I start. When I first started my e93 set, I knew I couldn't afford a Cobb or Wagner in a higher grade, so I built the set in mostly poor-good condition (still need a Cobb and Plank at a reasonable price). Same thing with the w554 set. Both of those sets are also not extremely difficult to find so can be more discerning and upgrade when I find something nicer at a good price. On the other hand, this year I've started an e92 Nadja set which just by the rarity of some of cards I'll pick them up regardless of their condition. When I first started this set, I figured it may take between 10-15 years to complete even buying whatever was available.

DJ

Wildfireschulte
11-24-2013, 05:57 AM
It always comes down to collect what you like - otherwise, just buy Google stock and call it a day. I just spent yesterday culling thru and counting my T206's to figure out my Monster Number. Cards that I haven't looked at for more than 12 years (since my dad and I quit doing shows). Over this period I focused on more 3D items (bats, balls, gloves). None of the cards are graded and most are G-VG, but what fun getting reintroduced to them. After digging thru boxes, I was holding at 347 different cards - I flipped thru a binder of mostly non-sports and found my LaJoie portrait - a wrinkled mess with a pin hole above his head (I need to learn how to post pictures) - I would generously grade Fair - but an absolutely beautiful card. I remember paying $10 for it at a Cleveland National in the 90's and turning down offers of $30 on the same day. I am glad that I kept it because now I'm at 348 including that rosy cheeked LaJoie.

Obviously the guys that focused on quality 20 years ago were handsomely rewarded when slabbing companies systematically confirmed how rare the true Ex+ tobacco cards are, but that ship has sailed. Since that spike, the value of lower grade T cards has been pulled up and has proven to be a solid investment as well - not Google returns, more like AT&T. For me, I'm cool continuing the chase for VG- white (ish) borders.

BradH
11-24-2013, 06:25 AM
For me, a large set such as T206 has always been about quantity over quality. As long as a card is centered, I'm usually happy to add it to my set. I don't mind creases or even some back damage. I also have no preference on the back brand for this set. I'll make upgrades along the way, but generally I'm not too concerned about having some P-F cards in the set.

For smaller sets, such as '33 DeLong, '55 Topps hockey or '55 Topps All-American football, I took my time and went for quality because the small set size made it possible to be more discerning.

Also, I buy mostly raw and I crack almost all my graded cards from their slabs. I get buying TPG cards and understand that it adds some security (especially if you're buying mostly over the Internet), but I've saved lots of money over the years simply by educating myself and understanding the cards I'm seeking. For some of the more expensive cards I've purchased that were graded ('33 DeLong Gehrig or '55 Topps Gordie Howe, for example), I will usually leave them slabbed in case I ever need to liquidate them quickly.

Just my two cents.

rainier2004
11-24-2013, 06:48 AM
Great answers already mentioned above. I would reiterate collect what you like. I have been a set collector my whole life and have learned some things. Decide what condition is acceptable to you while considering the priciest cards in that grade range ( did you see the price of the psa 3 Magie in LOTG?). I like uniformity in my sets, Ill sell the ex/nrmt cards if the set is gd/vg which is where I find myself a lot. I also think buying "place holders" is a waste of cash unless they are dirt cheap or a tough issue that demands it...I don't think t206s fall into that category as a general 520 set.

I collect raw as well, crack 'em out. So not to get on my soap box, but I always thought collecting a certain companies cards in a specific grade would be extremely limiting. The reasons have already been explained plus doesn't that feel restricting? Freedom is the ability to do as you please though so it may just my perspective.

kamikidEFFL
11-24-2013, 07:09 AM
When building a set I put these guidelines to use.

1.My interest in the set--most important thing why else Build it

2.Research on the set--Tells me a lot. How many rare cards or difficulty of the set. How many are graded high or low. Money I will spend overall.

3.How many cards are in the set--Don't always like dealing with large sets with multiple variations. That's my own preference

4.Check on how many big $$$ cards are in the set--One reason I didn't build the 33 Goudey Set. 2 Ruth's and 2 Gehrig's= 2 much haha

5.What grade/condition of the set I want--Does eye appeal matter or is it i just want the set because i like the set. My 38 goudey set is PSA 1-3 just because i like the design of the cards. my 34 goudey set i want a nicer looking set so i buy psa 5+.

Those are my guidelines when building a set or before I get ready to build a set. If you can answer these questions above or a few of them that usually gives you an idea of where you want your set or collection to be. Eye appeal isn't always necessary to everyone. If your trying to invest and possibly down the line sell these the better the grade the better money you may get but again in this hobby you never know. Sometimes if there is a lower grade card but the money is right buy it and upgrade later. I hope this helps you. Best of luck on the set if you choose to tackle it.

wonkaticket
11-24-2013, 07:40 AM
I tend to go for quality over qty and I'm always upgrading. But I tend to use this with anything I collect where I can. Now I will define that quality to me is the best looking card I can find not always the highest graded I have 4's that I replaced 6-7's in my set of T206s. It's about the overall look of the card and uniformity that makes a set for me.

http://photos.imageevent.com/piojohn3/net54shared/websize/Group%201.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/piojohn3/net54shared/websize/Group%202.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/piojohn3/net54shared/websize/group%204.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/piojohn3/net54shared/websize/Group%205.jpg

Also I think you mean 4 Ruth's and 2 Gehrig's for the 1933 Goudey. :)

Cheers,

John

E93
11-24-2013, 08:38 AM
John,
Your set is absolutely stunning....and there is no doubt it will sell for a premium if you ever do sell it.

I am with John, with a set like T206, I go for overall eye-appeal and consistency throughout my set.
JimB

http://photos.imageevent.com/jimblumenthal/t206/websize/T206%20DAVIS%20PSA%204.jpghttp://photos.imageevent.com/jimblumenthal/t206/websize/T206%20Bresnahan%20Portrait_%20Hindu%20PSA%205.jpg http://photos.imageevent.com/jimblumenthal/t206/websize/T206%20Waddell_port%20PSA%206.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/jimblumenthal/t206/websize/T206%20Matty%20Port%20PSA7.5%20front.jpghttp://photos.imageevent.com/jimblumenthal/t206/websize/T206%20Bender%20Portrait%20SC%20150%20fact%2030%20 2nd%20dist.%20NY%20front%20PSA%206.jpghttp://photos.imageevent.com/jimblumenthal/t206/websize/T206%20Marquard_follow%20through_%20P350-460%20fact.%2025_%202nd%20dst%20PSA%204.jpg

ullmandds
11-24-2013, 08:43 AM
Historically...I was never a "vintage" set collector...I was always more of a type collector.

The first vintage set I completed was e90-2...a tiny tiny set of 10...took me about a year. I then went after E94...which has always been a favorite of mine.

For me...consistency of grade/eye appeal is most important, regardless of actual # grade. This can be especially challenging Esp with a set like e94 which is not readily available in any grade!

the 'stache
11-24-2013, 08:44 AM
Some great input thus far, guys. I really appreciate it.

Part of my problem as a collector, and in life itself I guess, is that I over-analyze the hell out of everything. It's driven the women I've been with nuts. I guess that's why I'm talking about maybe having a wife and kids in the hypothetical. http://williamgregory.net/images/laughing.gif

Since I know the commons of the T206 aren't going to go up much in price, maybe I'll focus a little more on the Hall of Famers, stars and Southern leaguers now, and work on the commons a little more later.

John, those cards are gorgeous!

wonkaticket
11-24-2013, 08:44 AM
Thanks Jim, that Bender & Davis are super nice. And that Matty wow!

ullmandds
11-24-2013, 08:52 AM
That's a commonly employed tactic w/t206...going after the hof'ers/high buck cards first...as they will maintain their value so when you grow tired of throwing thousands of dollars at common players you could care less about and decide to let the monster beat you...you can resell and maybe even make $$$$!!!!!

3-2-count
11-24-2013, 09:04 AM
John and Jim sensational cards, each and every one of them. Eye appeal over all else without doubt!! I would suggest tackling set collecting using this very same philosophy as well.
The slab should be looked upon as protection for the card only, not determining it's value.

frankbmd
11-24-2013, 09:07 AM
I like eye appeal just as much as John and JimB, but would add that a complete Monster is more frequently sold at Napa Auto Parts than in a Lamborghini show room. Therefore although uniformity presents nicely, I enjoy having many nice cards in my set and don't mind having a few stragglers as well. Like Wonka and others, I am continually upgrading at this point (at the 518 plateau) to improve the overall appeal of my set, but I do not foresee selling my EXMT examples for the sake of uniformity. Regardless of the condition level you select, if you shop patiently, you shouldn't lose. My set covers the condition gamut from Poor- to NM+, averaging VG+ currently. The advantage of having 518 VG+ cards matters not to me. My Cobbs are EX+, VGEX+, Fair and Authentic. I like them all and all will ultimately sell for more than I paid for them (but perhaps over my dead body;)).

the 'stache
11-24-2013, 09:10 AM
Thanks Jim, that Bender & Davis are super nice. And that Matty wow!

+1. They certainly are!

That's a commonly employed tactic w/t206...going after the hof'ers/high buck cards first...as they will maintain their value so when you grow tired of throwing thousands of dollars at common players you could care less about and decide to let the monster beat you...you can resell and maybe even make $$$$!!!!!

I might take a break from the monster, but I don't think I'd ever sell unless I'm looking to upgrade, which I will with my Johnson portrait at some point in the near future. I really love the set, and if I can knock out the costly cards, I don't think buying a few commons a month along with the other cards I really want will be too tough on the old budget.

Leon
11-24-2013, 09:27 AM
When I very first started collecting I had to make the decision on how to collect (as everyone does). I went for the best eye appeal but usually not high grade. That way I could/can afford more. I will leave, for the most part, the technically high grade cards for other collectors. I would rather own one that looks like those but has some tiny flaw that usually can't be seen. That is a perfect card for me.

g_vezina_c55
11-24-2013, 10:21 AM
For my part, for my goudey set i go with sgc 40-50 cards. Eyes appeal verry important now .
I also buy graded auth or 1-2 cards if the eyes appeal is ok for me.

John, your collection is amazing :)

atx840
11-24-2013, 10:50 AM
Beautiful cards John & Jim.

I'm really starting to appreciate the non-error side of collecting. Clean image with bold colors and add in a rareback, I'm like a kid in a candy store.

oldjudge
11-24-2013, 11:34 AM
John-those cards are amazing. They almost make a non-T206 collector like myself consider collecting the set, almost. In terms of answering the OP's question, I agree with Rick. I have collected the Old Judge set for over 20 years and the only strategy I have had has been--if I need it and can afford it I buy it. In a set with truly rare cards you can't be thinking about getting a high grade copy because a high grade copy may never come to market. You have to be satisfied with what you find and upgrade later if a better copy comes along.

conor912
11-24-2013, 12:59 PM
I will define that quality to me is the best looking card I can find not always the highest graded I have 4's that I replaced 6-7's in my set of T206s. It's about the overall look of the card and uniformity that makes a set for me.

+1

I just replaced a ton of 5's with 4's, which is great because it frees up a nice chunk of cash. Quality is very often not defined by the grade.

At the end of the day, you should want the cards to be uniform, not the slabs.

T3s
11-24-2013, 01:56 PM
Hi,
I think another aspect to keep in mind is how you acquire the cards. For instance, one by one on Ebay or BST, or in large lots from an auction house. Tactically speaking, you can generally get a decent value and fill a lot of holes in your set by finding a nice T206 lot in an auction house. Whatever duplicates you obtain can be sold, therefor reducing your cost basis on the lot. I can easily recall (as I'm sure many on the board can) buying a large lot, keeping a bunch of cards, then selling the dupes and cards I've upgraded for as much as I paid for the whole lot. Free cards!

Being a seller as well as a buyer is one of the keys to building a set quicker and cheaper. I've always been focused on building sets and have always used this strategy. It's also quite fun when the box arrives and you're able to go through stacks of cards. You can't keep them all, but it's cool and a valuable experience.

Hope that helps.

Happy Collecting,
Craig

drmondobueno
11-24-2013, 01:58 PM
I started collecting again last year after a 25 year hiatus. And of course I started in on the monster. I began buying ungraded cards but found I was running into a number of issues- trimmed/altered cards, ooor presentation, etc. I also found my eyesight to be changing and insufficient to be discerning, so I went for graded cards and focused on the HOFers. Somewhere down the line I realized I also liked backstamped and beater cards, so I have a number of those in my set, personal preference. As my focus has expanded, I am settling for lower graded cards with nice presentation to finish the set. And the t201 set bit me. My focus there are higher graded cards; a much smaller set with more reasonable prices. Try getting an Sgc 84 Cobb bat off for 1500 bucks. This s a nice hobby, has displanted my other sickness of building bamboo rods in the winter...most of the time...

And the upgrading continues on the Monster, of course...

Sean
11-24-2013, 02:28 PM
Hi Bill. Having limited cash and an unlimited interest in all things T206, I decided early on to settle for lower quality cards for most of the set, but I would try for higher grades for the important cards. So for example many of my commons are fair to good, but the Cobbs are Psa 4 or 5.

I don't plan to upgrade, because with this set there is always some new challenge- Rare backs, back runs for a specific player or group of players, etc.

With this set, completing the set is only the beginning. So I'm content to settle for lower grades for what I consider the less important cards.

Good luck however you decide to collect. :)

wonkaticket
11-24-2013, 02:35 PM
John-those cards are amazing. They almost make a non-T206 collector like myself consider collecting the set, almost. In terms of answering the OP's question, I agree with Rick. I have collected the Old Judge set for over 20 years and the only strategy I have had has been--if I need it and can afford it I buy it. In a set with truly rare cards you can't be thinking about getting a high grade copy because a high grade copy may never come to market. You have to be satisfied with what you find and upgrade later if a better copy comes along.

Thanks Jay, perhaps now I get a little payback and get you on T206's because you were the guy that got me recently hooked on OJ's! Which btw I'm finding aren't cheap thing to get hooked on. :)

the 'stache
11-24-2013, 03:28 PM
More excellent advice, guys. Thank you.

A few additional questions/discussion points:

1.) Do you all find that when buying cards from sellers on Ebay they'll work with you to sell off the site? The seller's fee is 10%, isn't it? (excluding the small amount to Paypal, which makes it 13% total I believe). If I see a card being sold for $300, what's the likelihood they'll complete the transaction off Ebay for $270. Do they get penalized by ending a listing prematurely? I'd be buying with Paypal, so I'd have purchase protection. I figure if I can establish a great relationship with a few select Ebay sellers, I could save the 10%, and drive a substantial amount of business their way. I understand that people like Mike Denero, etc sell the cards they buy at a mark up for profit, and I'm totally cool with that. They are providing a service by scouring auction houses and other auctions, and I am more than happy to pay a premium for it. But if I can save a little off the top, that's a little more I can invest into my collection instead of sending it to Ebay.

2.) What's the word on sellers willing to wiggle a little on price on non-auction style listings? I've always been a buy it now guy working on my Chrome auto collection, so I'm not very knowledgeable as to how the game is played. I'm looking to do the majority of my set building by buying from my fellow Net 54 members as I know the cards I acquire will be authentic, and there are often some good deals to be had. Plus, I would rather give my money to people I know love the hobby.

Sean, it sounds like we're in the same boat. I'll have to build slowly over time. Patience is going to be key for me. I have to learn to analyze several cards that I am looking for at one time, and find the deals for the cards with the best eye appeal within that group.

God, this is so much more fun than stock trading, lol. I get an adrenaline rush chasing Eddie Collins and Ed Walsh cards that I could never get buying Google or Coca Cola! :D If FINRA were to offer a brokerage license for baseball cards, I'd be all over that! :D

You guys really are the best. You all come through like the U.S. mail. I can't express how much I truly appreciate the knowledge and enjoyment I get from Net 54.

stewbacca
11-24-2013, 03:36 PM
Lots of good info in this thread!!! Been working on the set for 13 months and am sitting at 139. With a limited teacher budget, I decided to go for lower grade(well loved), raw card type set, with the plan to finish as quick as financially possible. I have not gone the AH route yet for bigger lots, but have thought that it could keep the price per card down. Reading that it has worked for others is encouraging.

Lgarza99
11-24-2013, 03:55 PM
Bill,
Great question. I'm in the same boat. I just joined here in July and love all this great info and discussion found on this sight, and to see all the great cards fellow members have is a plus! I'm currently at 51 and I have asked myself this same question.

I've tried to stay with PSA 3-4 with the HOFers at 4 as financially possible. I've got 10 HOFers. I was going to build my set with a rare back run in twined into it but that makes it to expensive and pulls down set GPA. So what I'm trying to do to not consider backs for my set is to do the back run in SGC holders. Cards in SGC holders look great!

I have a bought a few 2's but they have great color and centering! But this is usually to get a fix! :D

I have found myself bidding on HOFers and tougher cards lately unless the common is at a very fair price. Tough for me to be patient but when I am I love the rewarding feeling.

Luis

steve B
11-24-2013, 03:55 PM
I have a different approach than most people.

I'm more of an opportunist collector than set or player collector.

What I look for is a card that's a good value at the time I'm looking.
My Group of T206s has some nice ones, and a lot of them that are not so good. Currently I look for ones that are ungraded but that I think have a good chance of being a 50. if I can get a good looking card with minimal corner wear for a bit less than a graded 50 that's great.
I also look for cards with something that's interesting to me, like print errors or some small difference. T206 has a lot of these.

I haven't always done things this way, for a time I bought based on quantity. So I'd buy maybe 2-3 cards in G instead of one that was EX. Great for the budget, but not for display. But I still buy low grade cards if they're a good deal.
I've never worried much about uniformity. I like to have some really nice cards, but for some cards that's totally unrealistic. So I'm happy with the Cobbs I have that are P-F, and happy with commons I bought in the 80's that got really good grades. I wouldn't pass up a good deal in my price range just because the card is nicer than the rest, I also wouldn't pass up a good deal on an expensive card because it was a bit more worn.

When you ask about long term value increase - That depends on your idea of long term. If you want to finish the set and sell it in say 2-3 years, stick with graded around a 50/4 and go for HOF players first.
If long term means a few decades, get whatever looks nice to you. (Do backs matter to you? If not there are some very nice looking 10s and 20's with back damage.) I bought my first in I think 1978. 25 cents, HOF and less common back too. Also horrible condition. At the time VG commons were around 1.50 and most HOF players were $10 or less. Prices tended to increase in steps, next was commons at $3, then 9 then 15. I went through periods of denial about the increases. $9 ! that should only be $3-4!
So over a long time even commons won't do so badly, especially nicer ones.

The best approach is to take each individual card and ask
"do I like it"
"Do I like it $X worth"
"Do I like it MORE than another similar card for the same price?"
"Do I like it enough to pay over the current price for the grade?"

If the answer the any of the first three is no, it's not the card to buy.
If the answer to the last question is yes, just buy it and don't worry about price.

I read an article recently about a stamp collection where the collector bought items only if they "spoke to him" - The result is simply spectacular.

I'm guessing John has a similar approach, with similarly spectacular results.

Steve B

the 'stache
11-24-2013, 04:56 PM
Great post, Steve. It's all about making sounds decisions, isn't it? You have a system that works for you, and ultimately, I need to take what I'm learning from you and everbody else, and find what works best for me. I want that sharp PSA 4 Ty Cobb green background, but I also don't want to go more than two months between adding a new card to my collection because I'm saving for just one card. Decisions, decisions...

Spending $50 now on a good-very good common that will cost roughly the same three years from now is not the best use of my funds. If I take that money, and put it towards the Eddie Collins I want, knowing full well that he is (in my opinion) an undervalued Hall of Famer with a lot of upside potential from a collectible standpoint, in essence I will be spending less to "check him off" the list. Spend $200 now, or spend $300 two years from now. The monster is tough enough to defeat, and throwing money away just adds to the difficulty level. Based on what you guys are saying, it's about intelligently picking and choosing my battles.

Here's an example of a common with great eye appeal that didn't break the bank. To be honest, it's one of my favorite cards thus far, and at the end of the day, we all collect because we enjoy what we buy, so it was money well spent (thank you, again, David!) While it's certainly not on the level of John's cards aesthetically speaking, I am quite happy with the overall look of the card.

http://imageshack.us/a/img203/3338/qq3a.pnghttp://imageshack.us/a/img842/7572/5vpl.png

From a technical standpoint, the card deserves a 2 grade because there is a very slight, almost imperceptible amount of paper loss on the back (in the 'A' of Caporal). And by PSA's grading standards, paper loss automatically = a specific grade. But I think this little card, which has survived God knows where for a century, is beautiful. I look at it, and ask myself if I will upgrade this anytime soon, and honestly, I can't see myself doing it until I'm done with the Hall of Famers, and Southern Leaguers, and working on commons. I am perfectly content with this card. The registration is spot on. The color is beautiful. The centering is awesome, and the corners overall are actually quite nice. I'd wager that this card would have superior eye appeal to similar cards in a PSA 3 to 4 range. So, therein lies the conundrum that really shouldn't be. I am buying for my own enjoyment, right? So in this case, why do I need to pay more for a card with a higher grade because somebody I've never met thinks a spot of paper loss makes my example somehow inferior?

steve B
11-24-2013, 05:47 PM
Sounds like you're well on your way.:)

That Rucker has really nice color for that card too. Even with a 50 you might not find one that looks that nice.

There are plenty of commons in solid VG for under $50, but buying the HOFers does make sense.

A lot of what I buy lately is nice but not graded, I wait till a good special and then send in a few. Most of them are VG-VGEX, but I've had a few that have been a lot nicer. It's a good day when the common that was $40 comes back an 80:)

Steve B

jlehma13
11-24-2013, 08:04 PM
I am up to approximately 240 t206's at the moment. I decided my version of the set will include one card of each player, less the two big guys. No worrying about breaking the bank, finding out that a card has been trimmed, or how they would grade. Just well-loved, written on, beat up cards for me.