The condition of your monster

[phikappapsi]

Reading through the monster number thread, I couldn't help but see a lot of people growing their sets rapidly, which obviously has an associated expense.

Basically got me thinking about what condition people were trying to achieve. Some people build beaters, some try to build "investment grade" sets etc etc...

Just wondering what overall condition you're trying to build your set in? I don't want this to turn into one of those threads that indicts TPG either, so if you collect raw T206s I'd say basically "grade" your own set avg condition 1-10

Also, are you building higher grade commons and lower grade HOF? I think I've seen a few people that have a lot of 6s then a bunch of Cobb/young etc etc 2 and 3s.

Obviously there's no right answer to building a set, and also it's 100% dependent on financial feasability... Most collectors simply can't put together a PSA 7/8 monster (nor can I)

[Vegas-guy]

So far I've been able to do mine in SGC 60 and 70..:D (See below) Overall I am hoping to be VG-EX or better for the entire set. But like you said it all comes down to $$$$ and I don't really make that much..:(

Happy collecting..:)

[Ronnie73]

I'm a front/back collector so the condition depends on the back. Common backs, I try for no less than PSA 4/SGC 50. Uncommon and rare backs, PSA 1 to PSA 4 or SGC 10 to SGC 50. No qualifers on the PSA's and no writing or major paper loss on the SGC's.

[bunst]

My goal is to complete the set in average VG 3 condition, with some 2's and some 4's. As it turns out many of the cards I sent in for grading from my purchases years ago have come back SGC 50 to SGC 80 (1 actually got an 84), so I'll probably be downgrading those at some point to help obtain some of the tougher and more expensive cards.

[t206blogcom]

When I started my T206 set, I was an avid raw collector, willing to take beaters and trimmed cards. As my set evolved, I eventually took a liking to graded cards and cards of higher grades. As for my set grade, it ranges from raw partial cards (corners missing) to 4's and 5's.

[t206hound]

I'm different from most and only buy/keep cards in SGC 40. I stumbled upon this when I was looking through my initial attempt of "any condition" SGC holders about two years ago. I had 100+ cards in SGC 10-50, but the fact that I had such a wide disparity in condition bothered me. I decided on 40s because of the ratio of eye appeal to cost. Don't get me wrong, there's still a wide range of conditions in SGC 40 holders, and I still consider eye appeal when buying.

So... my goal is 520 (Piedmont, Sweet Cap, Polar Bear, Old Mill backs only) in SGC 40 for a net cost of around $10K. Right now I'm a little over half way and in around $4K but still have some BIG cards to get: Cobbs, Johnsons, Youngs. Once I get them all, the set will be sold and I'll start on another. To me it's all about the chase...

[bunst]

So... my goal is 520 (Piedmont, Sweet Cap, Polar Bear, Old Mill backs only) in SGC 40 for a net cost of around $10K. Right now I'm a little over half way and in around $4K but still have some BIG cards to get: Cobbs, Johnsons, Youngs. Once I get them all, the set will be sold and I'll start on another. To me it's all about the chase...

Erick,
So you think it is possible to build a SGC 40 set (520) for $10K? My thinking was that I'd have to spend at least $15K to achieve that. Probably you got some good deals in the past to help you with that figure...or made some good profit on your sales?

[g_vezina_c55]

i build my t206 set in VG or less grade.

I have arround 95 t206 graded by psa and sgc but now i buy Raw cards because of the price, and the space.... graded card take too much space in my safe.

I work on a 522 cards set with the magie and the plank.

I will never be able to afford Wagner or Doyle. I have no concern at this time for back.... i only have SC, piedmont and a couple polar bear back.

I am a front collector.

[SushiX37]

I only collect T206 cards graded by PSA. I know some might frown on this, but I've always been a fan of theirs, and really don't care for how other companies slab their cards.

That being said, most of mine are PSA 3. I will buy 1s and 2s if they are reasonable, but would prefer them in a 3.

Rich

[Pup6913]

Since I buy for my daughter they are what ever condition I can get at $10-15 each. Some are nice and some are rough

[Cardboard Junkie]

I collect all grades t206s but try to avoid any with paper loss or pin holes or marks.....creases and round corners are ok with me. All raw...if I buy graded I bust em out. aloha, dave.

[t206hound]

Erick,
So you think it is possible to build a SGC 40 set (520) for $10K? My thinking was that I'd have to spend at least $15K to achieve that. Probably you got some good deals in the past to help you with that figure...or made some good profit on your sales?

Some good deals, but mostly profit from sales. "50s pay for 40s" is my slogan... I buy mostly raw and get anything that I think is 40 or higher graded. The cards that come back that I don't need are sold/traded.

[frankbmd]

My monster on the SGC grading scale carries an average grade of 44, or about 3.5 (VG+), but the standard deviation is great.

Best card 7.5 (86)
Best HOF 5.5 (70)
Second best HOF 5.5 (70)

Average cost per card $57.47
Average cost per HOFer $152.79

Most expensive $ 2400.00
Least expensive $ 6.50

Weight of the monster (85% graded) is about 81 pounds. If it was !00% ungraded, the weight would be 8.2 pounds.

Living with my monster...............priceless

[Runscott]

I'm looking for PSA 3's. I find that if registration is horrible, or if they have a light crease right through the eyes, I can obtain such cards for minimal cost. Not sure why, since that beautiful PSA flip looks exactly the same, regardless of the card's actual eye appeal.

[bbcard1]

I would guess my set would average a 2. I have some very nice cards, but mostly well worn and loved and I am ok with that. I normally try to get at least one nice card of every superstar HOFer...probalby a 4 or better of Cobb, Matty, Young, Johnson, Lajoie, etc. My eventual goal is to eliminate all cards with pieces missing, creases across the face, pinholes, etc. i wish I knew what I had in them...or maybe I don't. I am at 519 of 520. Have enjoyed the ride...will probably continue tinkering with the set...I will buy a common or HOFer that I need to upgrade and flip the lesser one to offset some of the costs. Or I'll buy a ten card lot and upgrade what I can then piece out the others hoping to break even...the upgrade is my profit.

[E93]

Mine averages close to Ex (5). Commons are raw. Graded HOFs average 4.7.
It is crease free and clean.
JimB

[tonyo]

Mine are all poor, fair, good, maybe one or two vg. I suppose that equates to an avg of 1.5 or 2 on a scale of 1-10.

Upgrading my "poors" - preferably with less common backs for variety - while keeping an eye out for an affordable Dahlen Brooklyn or O'Hara StL.

I can see myself slowly working on this set as long as I continue to collect cards.

[T206Collector]

I've been acruing PSA 5/SGC 60s at a haphazard pace. I'd much rather spend my collecting budget on signed T206 cards, but nobody's selling!

[marktheshark83]

i just get any grade by SGC. i try to get 30s or 40's tho, got a few with less of a grade. I can always upgrade ones i feel that need to be

[phikappapsi]

I just realized I never actually answered my own question. I'm looking to try to build the 520 set in 5 or higher. It's going to be a pretty slow process I figure I'll be able to afford 1-2 HOF per year and 10-20 commons, max, so it'll be a multi decade project (which will ultimately help keep me in the hobby)

I'm only at 4 right now, but it's a Joss portrait 5, young glove shows 5, Evers Chicago 6 and Joss pitching 7... So I'm well over my annual allotment of HoF...so from here on out, it'll be commons only.

[Bpm0014]

I absolutely don't collect them for an investment. I collect them because I love baseball, I love the history, I love showing them off, and I love the stories behind many of the players. With that being said, I collect ONLY raw cards with nice eye appeal on the fronts. If I buy one that is slabbed, I immediately take it out. If they happen to have paper loss, or are trimmed, or have a crease, or a minor pin hole, or were altered, or have writing/stamp marks on them, or even clipped corners, so be it!!

[Robextend]

I am a Tolstoi back collector, I go for any card I can get my hands on, and upgrade if necessary. I go on the assumption of not knowing if the same card will be up for sale anytime soon....

[wonkaticket]

For me it has always been about best looking card I can find regardless of grade. It’s more about uniformity I’ve tried to get all cards to look as sharp as I can without creases. I love that I have 4’s that look like my 7’s. In many cases I have put back higher graded cards for lesser graded cards because of eye appeal. I’m sure down the rod that will affect the sale and the buyer won’t care and would prefer the higher grade pint avg. but it’s how I’ve messed with this set.

http://photos.imageevent.com/piojohn3/net54shared/large/t206%20g.jpghttp://photos.imageevent.com/piojohn3/net54shared/large/t206%20g7.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/piojohn3/net54shared/large/94446.jpghttp://photos.imageevent.com/piojohn3/net54shared/large/t206%20g2.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/piojohn3/net54shared/large/t206%20g3.jpghttp://photos.imageevent.com/piojohn3/net54shared/large/t206%20g5.jpg

Most of my set now has cards that range from NMMT,NM,EXMT, EX & VGEX. But if you had to do the avg. thing I guess I ould be in the EX+ range. How do you do the weighted avg. crap anyway?

[phikappapsi]

John, your set is undeniably gorgeous. He'll of a job sir. When did you start building it?

[wonkaticket]

Joe, started about 20+ years ago...but the main upgrading and swapping over the past 7-10 years I guess.

Thanks for the kind words.

Cheers,

John

[g_vezina_c55]

John, your set is undeniably gorgeous. He'll of a job sir. When did you start building it?

X 2 , i love the color of the sky of your cobb bat off.

[E93]

John,
Amazing looking set!!!
JimB

[cfc1909]

Rare

[BleedinBlue]

I started off with the intent of building a set of cards that didn't include any true beaters. That evolved into getting cards that were graded at least sgc 30/PSA 2. Now I'm upgrading to PSA 3/SGC 40+. Sitting at 505/520 right now with an average grade of around 3.5/45. And I've spent WAY more than the $10-15k numbers mentioned earlier in this thread.

[martyogelvie]

Several hundred cards to go..
ranging from PSA1-PSA4.. mostly 2s and 3s. I have 1 PSA5.

[bbcard1]

I've spent WAY more than the $10-15k numbers mentioned earlier in this thread.

I haven't stopped to figure it, but I would bet I am at $10k on my low grade set....I have $1600 in the four cobbs alone, $585 in a Demmitt... $40-50 in a lot of the Southern Leaguers so that's 20% of it right there. Heck at $20 a card, you're looking at more than $10K.

[g_vezina_c55]

I haven't stopped to figure it, but I would bet I am at $10k on my low grade set....I have $1600 in the four cobbs alone, $585 in a Demmitt... $40-50 in a lot of the Southern Leaguers so that's 20% of it right there. Heck at $20 a card, you're looking at more than $10K.

585 in a demmit is a bargain price, you probably own it since many years.

Same thing for the 4 cobb at 1600. I have only 3 cobb now , bat off psa 2 , green port 1.5 and red portrait graded 1 and i have arround 2K in it .

I think it is almost impossible to build a 520 card set for 10K.

10 000 / 520 = 19$ average per card....

The set include 76 HOF cards, if i remove Plank and wagner we have 74 HOF. If you paid arround 20$ for each comon card so 20$ X ( 520 - 74 ) = 8920 $.
446

So 10 000 $ - 8920 $ = 1080 to afford 74 HOF cards.

And in this 446 ' comon ' card we have southern league player and also player who have a value more than a regular comon card....

like eddie cicotte card, eberfield variation, gandhil etc etc...

so i don t think we can build a T206 set for 10K.

[BearBailey]

All PSA graded 4, 4.5, or 5. I have plenty of time so it will take several years or decades to complete. I think I am up to 55 cards I get going and then I find something I have a much better chance of completing near term and finish that instead. So I may get 10 cards in a month or 10 in a year. I have no timetable for it at all. Most sets when I start I know when I hope to have it completed by, but with the Monster unless you want to only focus on it it is just too big and consuming for me to strictly go after it.

[atx840]

beaters & scraps.

[jp1216]

^^Ditto^^

Most of mine are 10s and Auths. I wanted a (mostly) raw set that wouldn't break the bank. Going after the 520 - "minus the big 4" set now. Need 5!