Authentic vs. SGC 10 / PSA 1

[joebrandon1977]

I'm relatively new to the T206 collecting world, but I guess this applies across all vintage cards.

I'm sure there are two sides to this, but what would you rather own?

1. Card that has been altered and is deemed "authentic", but may look great!

2. A card that has been unaltered and graded poor.

I've been collecting SGC 20 / PSA 2 and above just to stay out of this area thus far, but as I look at higher end cards and need the lower grades just to afford one, I want to make sure I wiegh everyone's opinion on this topic.

[rdixon1208]

I prefer for my graded cards to have a numerical grade, but that's just me. Most people will say (I know because we've had this discussion before) that they would rather have a card with great eye appeal that is slightly trimmed and in an "A" holder than a beater that looks like it was folded up and carried around in some kid's watch pocket. I get that, but not every card in a 1 holder looks like that. I would rather have a card in a 10 or 20 holder that has some sort of technical problem that drives the grade down than an altered card. IMO the lower the technical grade the wider the potential variance in condition. There are a lot of nice cards out there in 10 and 20 holders.

[teetwoohsix]

I think it comes down to what you feel comfortable collecting. It is about what you would like to/ want to see in your collection when you are looking at your cards- if it makes you happy, then all is good.

Me, I have found a happy medium with cards that are graded, or will grade V/G to V/G-E/X. I prefer them graded, and will collect SGC, BVG, and PSA. I steer clear of cards with the "A" because it bugs me that it's been tampered with( I only collect T206's- if I collected other types, my opinion of the "A" grade may differ) and also cards graded 1 (poor) but thats only because they are just a little too beat up for me. Nothing against people who like them-in fact, I do like to look at other peoples "beaters" :),,, but I am slightly picky- so a card graded 3-4 fits just about right.

And if you will spend $10-$15 on a beater T206 common, why not save another $10-$15 and pick up one that has no creases or paper loss? It may take ALOT longer to see major progress on a limited budget, but if you plan on being in it for the long haul, what's the difference?

Just my 2 cents,,,,,,,if the cards with an "A" fit your budget and make you happy, nothing wrong with that. Same goes for the cards graded poor.

Here's to wishing you well on your hunting and collecting :D

Sincerely, Clayton

[Rob D.]

It depends on how the card looks. I've never let a third party's number dictate whether I want a card in my collection. It might impact how much I pay, because if it's a high-dollar card I think it makes sense to protect yourself when/if it comes time to sell it.

But the card is the card is the card, no matter what the flip says.

[shimozukawa]

.

[Zach Wheat]

Joe,

I think it depends upon the set and the extent of alteration. In general I would prefer a numerical grade but certainly don't mind picking up "authentic" cards with great eye appeal....particularly with certain sets like N172's (Old Judge's)etc. I purchased 4 N172's that I suspected were skinned/re-backed but they had such great eye appeal I didn't mind.

M Wheat

[bh3443]

Hello Everyone,
It's great to be back so here's my first post in a while:

I'm not really a fan of the A grade, however I can see it has a purpose.
I just feel that in most cases an A grade is just an expensive holder for the card or a way to keep your set all in the same holders.

I have plenty of low grade cards with a 1 or 2 grade, and have even done a project like the 1954 Topps #1 Ted Williams (one of my favorite cards) that I own in PSA 1 thru 4!

There are plenty of cards out there that i can only afford a PSA 1 or 2, but i'd prefer a number than a letter!


Take care,
Bill Hedin

[novakjr]

I don't think people are sending in cards and saying "I hope I get a 1 or 2". While a 1 or 2 is better than an Authentic, that Authentic card often times may have way better eye appeal. At any means, it's my belief that low grade cards are sent in generally for the sake of Authentication anyways. Or just to be able to list a card on a set registry, even if it simply be for filler(In which case there's a huge difference between A, 1 and 2). Flippers are a different story that I won't really go into.

Since you're referring to t206's, I'll stick with them as an example. I, and I'm sure many others on lower budgets, mainly collect whatever we can get on the cheap, usually raw. A graded example will occasionally come into play, but it's generally only because the price is right, and it's nice to have one that's authenticated. In that case, there's really not much of a difference between A, 1 or 2(or even raw), just the fact that it's authentic is really all that matters.

Anyways, if you're working on t206 set. I'd suggest compiling as many as you can get, for as little to start, and worry about condition and upgrades later. As long as you never pay more than you think you can get in return, (just in case you ever do decide to upgrade), you can never go wrong with any purchase...

[steve B]

I don't mind lower grade cards. I've slowed on buying low grade t206s but only because I can usually afford a VG one that I'll like better.

But most of my "better" cards are in pretty bad condition.

A grades are a gray area for me, if the card looks nice, I don't see much problem as long as the price is appropriate. I've sent in a few for grading, but only ones that I think are nicer. I've had 2 came back ungraded, both miscut. I'm glad I didn't get them slabbed as "A" because sometimes it's only taken to mean trimmed. Someday maybe they'll allow a bit more leeway with the size, one of the ungraded ones was short by less than one that got a grade was narrow.

I do have a couple cards that I bought that I believe are trimmed. I won't bother grading them, but I'm still happy with the look of them. And for the more expensive cards I wouldn't rule out a card slabbed A.

Steve B