A few questions about bats...

[tlwise12]

I have always been a baseball collector, although mainly cards, I have the occasional glove or coin bank. I have always wondered about bats and the differences between the different "types." For instance, there are store model, game model, game used and to my knowledge that is really it!

My question is what are the differences between and how can you tell?

I've noticed a seller on eBay who has listed a number of bats supposedly game used by different negro leaguers. However, the only characteristics are the name on the bat.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Game-Used-Bat-jesse-Winters-Negro-Leagues-/380182386191?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5884a2d60f

Thanks for any and all help! It is much appreciated!

Travis
tlwise12@aol.com

[Vintage Yankee]

Travis,

Art Jaffe (Left Field Collectibles) is a reputable and highly recommended seller. That era is not in my realm of expertise regarding game-used bats, but perhaps you could reach out to Mike Specht (http://www.gameuseduniverse.com/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=36515). He's one of the resident experts at Game Used Universe, and I'm sure he would be of assistance.

R.J.

[WWGjohn]

I would also add home-made or hand-made bats to the list (including many made by places like tool companies whose primary business was not making baseball bats), which is what I collect mainly. This is probably the last area of bat collecting to take off. Prior to the sporting goods companies, the only source of bats was making them yourself or finding someone who could make one for you.

John

[MGHPro]

Travis
Trying to write out all of the differences between game and store bats could take forever, but I'll try to give it short summary.

Early H&B game bats, would have a 125 in the center logo and a blank, hand turned knob. Store model bats, if a model 125, will have the length stamped into the knob.. 34" 35" etc. Store models will normally be marked as a 40 followed by the players initials 40BR (Ruth) 40LG (gehrig)

Later H&B pro model bats started to get model numbers marked on the knob, which would eventually be moved to the barrel in 70's. Model numbers consist of a letter and number.. c12, r43, g69, 016 etc

Store model bats started to look a little different in the 40's and 50's when the bat markings were painted on instead of burned into the wood. Game bats, pre 1980, the markings will always be burned into the wood, except on adirondack bats.

The Winters bat is a pro model bat, being it was not a bat you could go buy in the local 5&10. That bat was specifically turned for a player named Winters, however there were 2 Winters in the Majors during that era and several in the minors. There were also probably another dozen of Winters playing in local leagues.

The bat would of had factory sidewriting at one point that would have helped identify a team or player, but since its not legible, its anyone's guess whose bat it was.

Please keep in mind, this is just a short explanation and there are many other factors to determine a true game bat.

Hope this helps
Matt
Bub13@aol.com

[drc]

I don't know if this applies to Negro League players, but Mike Mike Specht at GUU now gives certificates saying if your bat was ordered by the player, as he has the H&B records. So you can get documentation a bat was made for the player

[drc]

The ebay seller is a reputable and well known dealer of game used bats whose been in business for years. I've heard good reviews of him on the Game Used Universe boards.