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11-20-2008, 06:53 AM
Posted By: <b>Robert Dixon</b><p>Hey guys. I am new to the board (and collecting as a whole). I had a question about PSA qualifiers. What is the best way to get an accurate price on these? I bought a 1933 Goudey Babe Ruth (Bat)that is a PSA 2 (MK). I paid $800. I looked at the site www.1933goudey.com for recent ebay prices on this card and the lowest sale price in the last two years was $877 in Feb. '07, and many have sold for more since then, but none of these have the (MK) qualifier. Is there any way to know what the (MK) does to the value compared to the same card without the (MK)?

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11-20-2008, 06:59 AM
Posted By: <b>Bobby Binder</b><p>The standard thought is a qualifier drops the card down 2 grades, so a PSA 7 MC would be about the same as a PSA 5

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11-20-2008, 07:05 AM
Posted By: <b>Jim VB</b><p>Speaking in generalities, a qualifier usually lowers a grade about 2 notches in terms of price (e.g.- a PSA 7 (MK) sells at about the same as a PSA 5 with no qualifiers. ) SGC does not use qualifiers, but in most cases they would give it 2 grades lower. <br><br><br><br>In the case of your card, I'll guess SGC would have called it a 10. <br><br><br><br><br><br>I have found the best pricing reference source to be vintagecardprices.com. He tracks all graded cards, from all sets, from Ebay and most major auction houses. He has about 2-3 years of history. <br><br><br><br><br><br>VCP usually lists all grades with qualifiers in the &quot;Authentic&quot; section of their listings. <br><br><br>Edited to add- Bobby types faster than I do. He is more succinct than I am. He is also the owner of VCP and far too modest to suggest you use his site as it is fee based (not free.)

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11-20-2008, 07:33 AM
Posted By: <b>Sean</b><p>What is the mark on the card? If its smaller and on the back I don't think it would have that much to do with value. For reference a PSA 2 MC just sold for a $1000.<br><br>Do you have a scan?<br><br>

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11-20-2008, 08:41 AM
Posted By: <b>Jim VB</b><p>Scan courtesy of VCP. <br><br><img src="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb189/jvb6034/RuthPSA2MK.jpg" alt="[linked image]"><br><br>

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11-20-2008, 08:44 AM
Posted By: <b>Matt</b><p>oops - Shawn said it already.

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11-20-2008, 08:48 AM
Posted By: <b>Robert Dixon</b><p>That's the one. Thanks. This site is awesome!

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11-20-2008, 08:53 AM
Posted By: <b>Matt</b><p>Leon - can we get that in small lettering under the &quot;Net 54 Vintage Baseball Card Forum&quot; title in the top left?

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11-20-2008, 09:01 AM
Posted By: <b>leon</b><p>I assume you are talking about putting &quot;This site is Great&quot; on our home page? I am not sure we need to tout this site or email everyone and their brother to participate here....Most know it's the best vintage site on the internet already...... Plus we have gotten rid of most of the pain in the ass &quot;bitchers&quot;....so we do have that going for us too....take care<br><br>ps....I think the banner ads are what make this site even more great!!! <img src="/images/happy.gif" height="14" width="14" alt="happy.gif">....

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11-20-2008, 09:43 AM
Posted By: <b>JimB</b><p>As others mentioned, the standard is to consider the qualifier as a two-grade drop. However, it really depends on how much the fault affects the overall quality and eye-appeal of the card. If it has a disastrous affect, it might hurt more. If it is not really a big deal, but a technical fault, the affect might be less. Also, one has to consider the card and the set. If the card is extremely rare, it may not have much affect at all since buyers will want to get it in any condition they can. If it is from a set that is not too tough, the affect could be greater. <br><br>My point is that there is no simple, one-size-fits-all answer. Hope this helps.<br>JimB